Women’s Clothing (1620-1650), part 1: the common sort from probate inventories

The parameters

This is the first of two posts on women’s clothing in the period 1620-50 from the information in probates and wills. Part 1 looks at women with a probate estate of less than £30, and Part 2 at information from wills, where we do not how much the woman is worth.

Figure 1 : W. Hollar. An English Countrywoman. 1643

Women’s probate inventories are less common than men’s, and they are worth less than those of men in money terms. This looks at fifty nine women who had an estate valued at less than £30, a full list of names and values is at the end. The poorest woman, Alice Tayler, had an estate valued at only 12s 10d, her two old gowns were worth 8s 6d of that valuation. (1 p. 36)  The distribution of values is: 28 estates are valued at under £10, 16 between £10 and £20 and 17 over £20 but under £30. There are six described as single women and four as maidservants, but for the most part they are widows.  Two of the women are running a business, Avis Clarke in 1624 is a peddler, and Margaret Day in 1628 has a large stock of gloves (over 300 pairs, plus pouches, purses and bags). (2 p. 329) (3 p. 68) The probates rarely mention who they had been married to, but it has been possible to find some connections where they were the wives of small tradesmen: a painter, a vintner, a plumber, and a saddler. 

The types of clothing listed

Many probates just give ‘all her apparel’ although sometimes this is expanded to ‘all her woollen apparel,’ because for the most part only the main garments were valued. Sometimes it will list ‘all her apparel both woollen and linen,’ as normally linens are listed separately, so smocks and other linen garments would be with sheets, tablecloths, etc. Occasionally some completely non clothing related stuff is included in a valuation, as in “wereing apparell, firewood and other implements £1 15s.” (1 p. 100) Tonny Frissworth’s 1621 inventory groups her clothes as follows: “Her wearing apparell; 2 old gounes and 2 petticotes and a wosecotte 10s, three aprenes and 2 smookes 3s, on pettycoye and 3 shresclathes [probably cross cloth or cross clout] 6s 8d.” (1 pp. 12-3) This listing means the clothes are worth 19s 8d of a total estate of £3 11s 8d. Accessories such as shoes, hats, gloves, may be listed, but not usually with the main valuation. The sort of clothing assemblage which resulted can be seen in Hollar’s 1643 print Mulier Anglicans habitans in Pago (An English country woman), she wears a petticoat and a waistcoat with an apron over, a kerchief at her neck, and a coif and hat on her head. [Figure 1] The clothing groups below are divided into Main garments, Linens, and Accessories, and listed alphabetically within each.

Main Garments

Bodies

Four women own bodies. The poorest of these is a maidservant who owns, “on smock, three wastcotes, on payre of stockings and a payre of old bodies 4s,” her total estate is only worth £1 and 4d. (1 p. 3) The only pair with a value given belonged to Frances Jodrell, spinster, “one paire of French bodies 20d,” her will was contested and there was a court case. (4 pp. 315-22) The Sittingbourne bodies [Figure 2] were part of a cache of deliberately concealed garments found under the floorboards of a building in Sittingbourne; they date to 1620-50. They had been heavily used and are much patched and repaired, but nothing is known about the owner. The bodies have been examined by many and there are patterns and explanations. (5 pp. 46-7) (6 pp. 94-9)

Figure 2: The Sittingbourne bodies undergoing conservation.

 

Cloaks [and safeguards]

Six women own cloaks, and two are paired with safeguards. Safeguards, a type of overskirt, when they are with cloaks usually indicate that the owner rides. (7 p. 29) One old cloak is valued at two shillings, while another is valued at eight shillings. (8 p. 80) (3 p. 125) No textiles or colours are given.

Coats

Only two women own coats, and one of these is described as a riding coat. (4 p. 315) (1 pp. 157-8)

Gowns

Gowns are a major item and eighteen women list thirty two gowns between them. In price they range from two old gowns worth 2s 2d each to “one black searge gown £2” (9 p. 72) (8 p. 80) Apart from the serge gown there are two medly gowns, one stuff gown and “one silke gowne 33s 4d” Susan Maoh in 1626 has two gowns worth together 10s, but with a note “whereas one of these goundes is at pawne for 8s" (1 p. 52)

Petticoats and Kirtles

Fifteen women between them own 51 petticoats, there are only 2 kirtles, as the word kirtle is disappearing, being replaced by petticoat. (10) Nine of the petticoats are red, and one white and red. The value of these petticoats ranges from six pence, described as old, to twelve shillings. The maidservant Elinor Ell in 1620 has “three old petticotes 4s.” her total estate is just over one pound. (1 p. 3) The spinster Frances Jodrell, whose estate was worth £20 11s 4d, owns five gowns: two red cloth [wool] worth one shilling each, two red cloth petticoats laced and a stuff [worsted] petticoat, together worth 26s 8d. (4 pp. 315-22) One woman at the top of the valuations, Alice Beardsley, the 1647 widow of a saddler, owns a “phillipp and cheney petticoate.” (11 p. 78)  Quite what philip and cheney was has been a matter of debate, but it is generally associated with camlets, which Samuel Johnson’s Dictionary defines as “A kind of stuff originally made by a mixture of silk and camel's hair; it is now made with wool and silk.” (12)

Waistcoats

After petticoats and gowns, waistcoats are the most listed item, with 26 waistcoats between 13 women. The cheapest, unsurprisingly described as old, was worth 4d and the most expensive 5s 6d. Two are made of stuff, and there is “one ould white wascoate at js.” (3 p. 125) There is a waistcoat relating to St Winefride’s Well in Wales, which is probably from below gentry status [Figure 3]

Figure 3: The waistcoat from St Winefrides's Well

Linens

Linens are often listed together. The wife of Abraham Allaway, a painter, died a month before him in 1624 and his inventory lists all her clothes including “7 partlets, two kercheves, 1 quaife [coif], 3 aprons,1 crosclothe, …and a silke girdle.” His estate was worth £5 9s 1d. (2 p. 330) Two women in Banbury have a general value given for their linens. At the lower end of the valuations Susan Maoh has “her waringe linnen 2s.” At the upper end, with clothing in two locations Anne Busbee has, “her linen clothes 17s 2d” and, “her linen clothes at Banbury £1 9s.” (1 p. 52 & 66)

Coifs and Hoods

Coifs rarely appear, however the peddler Avis Clarke had many in her stock. There were nine at 3d each, six plain at 4d, nine black and tawney at 4d each, and eleven drawn work at 3¼d each. Clarke’s total estate was only worth £3 3s 7d. (2 p. 329) There is only one hood, and as that is matched with a cloak and safeguard, it is almost certainly a riding hood, as can be seen in Isaac Fuller’s depiction of Charles II and Jane Lane Riding to Bristol after his escape from the Battle of Worcester. [Figure 4]

Figure 4: Detail from Charles II and Jane Lane. National Portrait Gallery

Crosscloths

Cross cloths may be forehead cloths, but there are no forehead cloths in the data. Peddler Avis Clarke has six cross cloths in stock at two pence each. (2 p. 329) Jane Barnard in 1638 has five cross cloths worth seven pence each. (8 p. 80)

Drawers

Elizabeth Burges owns two pair of drawers, both valued a shilling each. One is of cotton, in this context probably wool, and the other of linen.

Neckwear and Wristwear (Bands, Gorgets, Kerchiefs, Handkerchiefs, Ruffs and Cuffs)

The peddler Avis Clarke has both bands and band strings in stock, but these may be for men; she also has handkerchiefs and handkerchief buttons. Figure 5 shows a 1640s Cry of London woman selling Bandstrings or Handkercher Buttons.  The most common neckwear appears to be the kerchief, which is listed variously as a kercher, kerchief, neckler, and handkerchief (though depending on the size this could be worn around the neck as it sometimes appears as a neckhandkerchief). Spinster Frances Jodrell has a plain band and, priced at 18d a band upon wires, which might be a rebato, as in the example in the Metropolitan Museum. Although ruffs are going out of fashion by this time two women have seven ruffs between them, all of which are described as old. In addition Elinor Ell in 1620 has a best ruff and “a payre of hand ruffs” 

Figure 5: Bandstrings or handkercher buttons from a 1640s Cryes of London. 

 Partlets

Five women own partlets between 1620 and 1624, either the item or the word is going out of use, as they do not appear later. Partlets are fill ins for the neckline and are either, external, worn over a gown, or internal, worn under the gown. In three cases they are listed with the linens and are therefore probably made of linen. Where a price is given, they range from 2½d to 1s 8d.

Smocks

Smocks are the basic undergarment for women, but few appear in inventories. Only eleven of the women have them listed, when they do they are usually multiple: two women have one smock, three have two smocks, four have three smocks, one has four and one seven smocks.

Accessories

Aprons

Fourteen of the women own between them thirty eight aprons. The cheapest, described as old is worth six pence, and the most expensive two shillings. Five are white, two are green and one is black. It can be assumed that those described as holland (a good quality linen) are also white. The only other textile mentioned is “a stuffe apron 14d” (4 pp. 315-22)

Garters

Garters only appear in the stock of peddler Avis Clarke, who has six pairs for 3s (6d a pair) and five others for 12d. (2 p. 329)

Girdles

Six women own girdles, one girdle is of silk, and another of the colour carnation. Carnation according to Peacham is flesh coloured. (13 p. 111)

Gloves

Accessories such as gloves are rarely mentioned in inventories. While both Avis Clarke and Margaret Day have gloves in stock, only Frances Jodrell has them in her inventory, “in gloves and mittens 2s”

Hats

Fourteen women own hats. The cheapest hats are priced at six pence, the most expensive at 6s 8d, Jane Barnard owns one of each. (8 p. 80) Only one is given a colour, and that is black.

Purses and bags

What often happens is that purses are listed with what money is in them, Mary Ballye has “her wareing parell and muney in her purse £2 2s 6d,” her total estate is only worth £3 15s 6d. (14 p. 3) Philip Ingerom has “three girdles and a purse with 4d in yt,” which together are worth 1s 8d. (9 p. 47) Margaret Day, the widow/glover has bags, pouches and purses in stock, presumably of leather, all of these are cheap. Purses, of which she has 153, are farthing ware, The bags and pouches are a penny each, while double pouches are 2¼d. (3 p. 69) Figure 6 shows a mended leather purse in the collection of the London Museum, it is probably sixteenth century.

Figure 6: Leather purse. London Museum. Object ID 13050

 

 

Shoes

Only four women mention shoes, though almost certain all owned shoes. The pair described as old are valued at one shilling.

Stockings

Stockings are listed by only three women. Frances Jodrell has “one paire of greene stockings 14d.” (4 pp. 315-22) Elizabeth Burges has “ij payer of white yarne stockins at iijs.” (3 p. 125)

Rarely mentioned items

Frances Jodrell, whose will was the subject of a court case, has several items that others do not. She has a 1d “head wire,” this may be what the Dutch call an oorijzer, and can be seen in paintings holding the coif in place. The London Museum has a couple of survivals in their collection. She also owns three scarfs, one described as old but worth 4s, one as a “whyte scarfe with a silver fringe” and the third “a greene scarfe with gold fringe.” She is also the only woman to own a roll, “a yellow rowle and an ould girdle 6d.” Her total estate is £20 11s 4d. (4 pp. 315-22)

References

1. Brinkworth E.R.C. and Gibson, J.S.W. eds. Banbury wills and inventories. Pt.2, 1621-1650. Banbury Historical Society. 1976, Vol. 14.

2. Jones, J, ed. Stratford-upon-Avon Inventories,volume 1, 1538-1625. Stratford-upon-Avon : Dugdale Society , 2002.

3. George, E. and S. eds. Bristol probate inventories, Part 1: 1542-1650. Bristol Records Society publication. 2002, Vol. 54.

4. Phillips, C. B. and Smith, J H. Stockport Probate Records 1620-1650. Record Society of Lancashire and Cheshire. 1992, Vol. 131.

5. Arnold, Janet, et al. Patterns of Fashion 5: the content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps, c.1595-1795. London : The School of Historical Dress, 2018.

6. Bendall, Sarah A. Shaping Femininity: foundation garments, the body and women in Early Modern England. London : Bloomsbury, 2022.

7. Buck, Anne. Clothing and Textiles in Bedfordshire Inventories 1617-20. Costume. 2000, Vol. 34.

8. Steer, Francis W. Farm and Cottage Inventories of Mid-Essex 1635-1749. Chichester : Phillimore, 1969.

9. Williams, Lorelei and Thomson, Sally. Marlborough Probate Inventories 1591-1775. Chippenham : Wiltshire Record Society, 2007.

10. Huggett, Jane. Rural Costume in Elizabethan Essex: A Study Based on the Evidence from Wills. Costume. 1999, Vol. 33.

11. Vaisey, D. G. ed. Probate inventories of Litchfield and district 1568-1680,. Historical Collections for a History of Staffordshire, Fourth Series. 1969, Vol. 5.

12. Johnson, Samuel. A Dictionary of the English Language. [Online] 1755. [Cited: Jun 28, 2023.] https://johnsonsdictionaryonline.com.

13. Peacham, Henry. The Complete Gentleman. London : Frances Constable, 1622.

14. Evans, Nesta, ed. Wills of the Archdeaconry of Sudbury 1630-1635. Suffolk Records Society. 1987, Vol. 29.

 

The women and their estates

	Year	Name	Status	County	£	S	D
1	1620	Agnes Weeb	widow	Wiltshire	6	18	2
2	1620	Elenor Ell	maidservant	Oxfordshire	1	0	4
3	1620	Elizabeth Hancock	spinster	Warwickshire	12	8	2
4	1621	Joan Stokes	widow	Oxfordshire	7	6	0
5	1621	Tonney Frissworth	widow	Oxfordshire	3	11	8
6	1621	Mary Tredwell	widow	Oxfordshire	2	5	8
7	1622	Elizabeth Lane	widow	Wiltshire	20	11	4
8	1622	Elizabeth Stokes	maidservant	Oxfordshire	4	17	10
9	1622	Elizabeth Elkenton	widow	Oxfordshire	3	4	4
10	1622	Alice Lord	widow	Oxfordshire	17	17	10
11	1623	Phillip Ingerom	servant	Wiltshire	12	10	10
12	1623	Alice Wyatt	widow	Wiltshire	12	12	8
13	1623	Christian Butler	widow	Oxfordshire	8	13	0
14	1623	Alse Pratt	widow	Oxfordshire	28	1	8
15	1624	Alice Draper	widow	Oxfordshire	1	7	2
16	1624	Alice Tayler	widow	Oxfordshire	0	12	10
17	1624	Avis Clarke	widow/peddler	Warwickshire	3	3	7
18	1624	Abraham Allaway	late wife’s clothes	Warwickshire	5	9	1
19	1625	Ellen Burgess		Cheshire	18	18	6
20	1625	Margaret Smith	widow of vintner	Warwickshire	6	19	6
21	1626	Susan Maoh	widow	Oxfordshire	3	1	2
22	1627	Anne Busbee	spinster	Oxfordshire	22	3	0
23	1628	Margaret Day	widow [of glover]	Bristol	25	11	0
24	1629	Anne Dudley	widow	Oxfordshire	10	5	4
25	1630	Isabell Williamson	widow	Oxfordshire	8	16	0
26	1630	Thomasine Upton	spinster	Hampshire	10	12	10
27	1631	Anne Winge	widow	Oxfordshire	23	0	0
28	1631	Alice Jones	servant	Oxfordshire	2	7	0
29	1631	Alice Tayler	widow	Oxfordshire	6	13	8
30	1631	Frances Jodrell	spinster	Cheshire	20	11	4
31	1631	Eleanor More	widow	Warwickshire	10	5	4
32	1631	Mary Ballye		Suffolk	3	15	6
33	1632	Elisebeth Winsor	widow	Wiltshire	14	9	0
34	1632	Elizabeth Harrison	widow	Oxfordshire	5	15	0
35	1632	Elizabeth Nayler	widow	Oxfordshire	24	6	0
36	1633	Elizabeth Reynes	widow	Wiltshire	7	18	2
37	1633	Alice Hayyard	widow	Oxfordshire	1	13	0
38	1633	Mary Humphris	spinster	Oxfordshire	4	2	0
39	1634	Joane Powell	widow	Wiltshire	7	15	8
40	1634	Clemence Robyns	widow	Oxfordshire	29	15	0
41	1634	Richard Lincoln	wife’s clothes	Norfolk	13	14	5
42	1635	Ellen Stockly	widow	Oxfordshire	12	14	0
43	1635	Anne Lumley	widow	Oxfordshire	13	2	6
44	1636	Christian Hitchcocke	spinster	Wiltshire	25	11	0
45	1637	Johane Titcombe	widow	Wiltshire	5	3	4
46	1638	Jane Barnard	widow	Essex	22	6	5
47	1639	Elianor Browne	widow	Wiltshire	13	18	2
48	1639	Susannah Devel		Oxfordshire	5	1	0
49	1639	Elizabeth Knibb	single	Oxfordshire	25	15	0
50	1639	Mary Kinch	widow	Oxfordshire	13	5	1
51	1639	Barbary Box	widow	Oxfordshire	7	7	0
52	1640	Anne Dawkes	plumber’s widow	Warwickshire	18	18	6
53	1640	Margery Beckett	widow	Suffolk	21	4	0
54	1641	Jone Jones	widow	Wiltshire	23	17	8
55	1642	Elizabeth Burges	widow	Bristol	26	13	0
56	1644	Margaret Heynes	widow	Oxfordshire	9	2	0
57	1646	Mary Atkins	widow	Staffordshire	22	8	4
58	1647	Judith Stibbens	widow	Bristol	23	18	11
59	1648	Alice Beardsley	widow/saddler	Staffordshire	27	13	6