Why contentious?
The first question might be, why is linsey woolsey a contentious cloth? The poet John Skelton, in his attack on Cardinal Wolsey, Why Come Ye Not to Court, wrote, “We shall have a tot quot [a dispensation] From the Pope of Rome, To weue all in one lome A webbe of lylse wulse.” (1) The reason why Wolsey would need a dispensation is explained by both the preacher Henry Smith in 1591, and John Donne in 1619, who mention linsey woolsey, quoting Deuteronomy, 22, 11, “Thou shalt not weare a garment of divers sorts, as of woollen, and linnen together.” (2) (3 p. 178) According to Beck at least one of the many eighteenth century editions of Nathan Bailey’s An Universal Etymological English Dictionary, described linsey woolsey as: “Cloth of linen and woollen mixed together of different and unsuitable parts ; vile, mean.” (4 p. 206).
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| Detail of the embroidery on a 1640s linsey-woolsey waistcoat. Victoria and Albert Museum |
Origins
The 1483 manuscript Catholicon Anglicum, an English Latin Dictionary, appears to be the first use of the term, it is listed as “lynsy wolsye.” (5 p. 217) In his 1542 work Andrew Borde recommends “In sommer, use to were a skarlet petycote made of stamele or lynsye-wolsys.” (6 p. 292) A petition to William Cecil in 1567 from “Pelegrynes and straungers of the Doche nacon,” [Pilgrims and Strangers of the Dutch Nation] regarding their settlement at Stamford, lists the cloths they will be weaving, which include linsey woolsey. (7 p. 294)
Clothing it was used for
Aprons: Several women leave linsey woolsey aprons at their death, and in the case of Katherine Ware in 1625 it was worth one shilling. Katherine also owned “foure white Aprons, being ould ones 2s 6d” and “one ould greene saye Apron 1s 6d.” (8 p. 60)
Cloaks: In 1631 Rose Sowter leaves in her will, “my cousin Thomasine Wright my linsey wolsey cloak.” (9 p. 153)
Coats: At 1647 will has widow Alice Lowe leaving a linsey woollsey coat and a russet colour coat with two laces about the bottom.” (10 p. 64) By the beginning of the eighteenth century coats could be purchased ready-made from salesmen. In 1704 Kent salesman Robert Amsden has two lindsey-woolsey coats in his stock, it is difficult to tell if these are for men or women. Many of the other coats in his stock are listed as for men or boys, the linsey Woolsey coats are listed together with four riding hoods, two white waistcoats and eight children’s coats. (11 p. 215)
Men’s suits: These are presumably a double and breeches. In 1637 the mariner George Weston has in the probate taken on his ship, the Prudence, “1 linsie wolsie suite.” (8 p. 104) Over in New England, in 1652, James Lindale has two suites, one of kersey and one linsey woolsey, which together were worth £1 15s 0d. (12)
Petticoats: The unmarried Margaret Patrick leaves her niece also Margaret Patrick, “my red linsey woolsey petticoat.” (9 p. 244) In 1626 Robert Carde, a husbandman, wills a linsey woolsey petticoat to his sister (13 p. 161)
Waistcoats: The image above is a detail from an embroidered woman’s waistcoat in the Victoria and Albert Museum. The fabric of the waistcoat has a linen warp with a woollen weft, and is therefore probably linsey woolsey. It dates to the 1640s and is embroidered in red crewel wool with motifs of butterflies, birds, flowers and some rather fantastic animals. In 1615 a widow, Margaret Farehurst , left in her will “my linstiewoonstie waste cote which I made last.” Indicating that at least some of these waistcoats would have been made at home. (14 p. 30) In 1651 two yards of linsey was purchased, “for Esther and Debora for two wastcoats.” These are the two youngest of the four Harpur daughters, the probate accounts for them cover the period 1650 to 1664 when they age out of the trust. (15 pp. 266-98) Waistcoat could also be purchased ready-made, the grocer James Kennard in 1637 had in his stock “3 linsey wolsey wastcoates 7s 6d,” but does not indicate whether they are for women or men. (16)
References
1. Skelton, John. Whi come ye not to courte. London : Toy, 1555.
2. Smith, Henry. A preparative to marriage. London : Thomas Orwin for Thomas Man, 1591.
3. Donne, John. The Sermons of John Donne, vol. II. 178 . Berkeley : University of California Press, 1955.
4. Beck, S. William. The Draper's Dictionary. London : The Warehousemen & Draper's Journal Office, 1882.
5. Herrtage, S. J. H. Catholicon Anglicum : an English-Latin wordbook dated 1483. London : Published for the Early English Text Society by Trübner, 1881.
6. Borde, Andrew. The fyrst boke of the introduction of knowledge made by Andrew Borde, of physycke doctor : a compendyous regyment, or, A dyetary of helth [1542]. London : Published for the Early English Text Society, by N.T. Trübner & Co., 1870.
7. Lemon, Robert ed. Calendar of State Papers, Domestic of the reigns of Edward VI, Mary, Elizabeth. London : Longman for HMSO, 1856.
8. George, E. and S. eds. Bristol probate inventories, Part 1: 1542-1650. Bristol Records Society publication. 2002, Vol. 54.
9. Evans, Nesta, ed. Wills of the Archdeaconry of Sudbury 1630-1635. Suffolk Records Society. 1987, Vol. 29.
10. Earwaker, J.P. Lancashire and Cheshire wills and inventories 1572-1696. Manchester : Chetham Society, 1893.
11. Spufford, Margaret. The great reclothing of rural England: petty chapman and their wares in the seventeenth century. London : Hambledon Press, 1984.
12. Plymouth Colony Archive Project. James Lindale probate inventory, 29 October 1652 [online].
13. Allen, M. E. ed. Wills in the Archdeaconry of Suffolk 1625-1626. Woodbridge : Suffolk Records Society, 1995.
14. Presland, M. ed. Angells to Yarnwindles: the wills and inventories of twenty six Elizabethan and Jacobean women living in the area now called St. Helens. St Helens : St. Helens Association for Research into Local History, 1999.
15. Phillips, C. B. and Smith, J H. Stockport Probate Records 1620-1650. Record Society of Lancashire and Cheshire. 1992, Vol. 131.
16. Kent Archaeological Society. Kentish Documents c1530-1810. Inventory of James Kennard 1637 (PRC11/2/62). [Online]
